Arminius Vambery

Arminius Vambery, a Hungarian linguist, had spent many years in Istanbul studying Turkish and acquainting himself with the Islamic faith. He was quite confident that his cultural and linguistic understanding would enable him to bluff his way through Central Asia, disguised as a wandering dervish pilgrim. Banking on the unlikelihood of suspician towards a holy man and the fact that few Central Asians had ever encountered a European and would not know what one looked like, he made preparations for the journey.

'Vambery with other Dervishes' taken from 'Travels in Central Asia'

Departing from Persia, he joined a band of wandering Dervishes keen to make a pilgrimage along the Sufic trail of holy tombs and learned Madrassahs. Beginning his journey with a sojourn amongst the Turkomans, he was able to glean fascinating inside information regarding local customs and traditions. His ability to understand local dialects and to ingratiate himself into society gave him rare glimpses into the lives of these nomadic and fierce people.

However, Vambery was also aware that his duplicity might well cost him his life. Few Central Asians would feel sympathetically inclined towards an infidel masquerading as a holy dervish, least of all the Khan of Khiva.

'Dervishes Praying' taken from 'Khiva Caught in Time'

"The reader can easily imagine in what state my spirits were when I found myself before the walls of Khiva, if he reflects on the risks to which any suspicion of my disguise would expose me, as soon as a first introduction should discover my European features. I was well aware that the Khan, whose cruelty was displeasing to the Tatars themselves, would, in case he felt any distrust, become far severer to me than the other Turkomans. I had heard that the Khan was in the habit of at once making slaves of all strangers of doubtful character; that he had, not long before, so treated a Hindustani who claimed to be of princely origin and who was now, like the other slaves, employed in dragging along the artillery carriages."

On arrival in Khiva, Vambery narrowly missed seeing his worst fears realised. A wily Afghan who had travelled with the dervishes and had serious suspicions over Vambery's true identity almost succeeding in unmasking him in Khiva.

'Dervishes receiving the Zikr' from 'Khiva Caught in Time'

"Scarcely had this official addressed the ordinary questions to our Caravanbashi , when the Afghan pressed forward and called out aloud, 'We have brought to Khiva three interesting quadrupeds and a no less interesting biped.' The first part of this pleasantry was, of course, applied to the buffaloes, animals not before seen in Khiva; but as the second part was pointed at me, it was no wonder that many eyes were immediately turned upon me, and amidst the whispering it was not difficult to distinguish the words 'Janis' (spy), 'Ferengi', and 'Urus' (Russian).
I made an effort to prevent the blood rising to my cheeks, and was upon the point of withdrawing when the Mehrem ordered me to remain. He applied himself to my case, using exceedingly uncivil expressions. I was about to reply, when Haji Salih, whose exterior inspired respect, came in, and, entirely ignorant of what had passed, represented me in the most flattering colours to my inquisitor, who, surprised, told me smiling as he did so, to take a seat by his side. Haji Salih made a sign to me to accept the invitation, but, assuming the air of one highly offended, and throwing an angry look upon the Mehrem, I retired."

'A Wandering Dervish' taken from 'Khiva Caught in Time'

Vambery managed to retain his disguise and even convinced the Khan, whom he met twice, of his dervish character; rewarded as such by the gift of a white ass, as was the custom for dervishes to ride. This was not the end of his adventures in Khiva which included the witnessing of a gruesome display of the Khan's justice but also enjoying and sometimes enduring incredible hospitality and generosity. Reflecting on his time in Khiva, Vambery wrote:

"In spite of these barbarous usages, in spite of these startling scenes, it was in Khiva and its dependent provinces that I passed, in my incognito as a Dervish, the most agreeable days of my whole journey.... I had only to appear in public when passers by, without any begging on my part absolutely pelted me with many articles of attire and other presents. I took care never to accept considerable sums. I shared these articles of attire amongst my less fortunate brethren, always yielding to them what was best and handsomest, and reserving for myself, as becomes a Dervish, what was poorest and least pretending.

'Vambery in disguise with his white ass'

Notwithstanding this, a great change had taken place in my position and, to avow it openly, I saw with joy that I was now well furnished with a strong ass, with money, clothing and provisions, and that I was perfectly equipped for my journey."

For more on the incredible exploits of the devious Hungrian read: Arminius Vambery - Travels in Central Asia - 1864